This resource has been A member of The Open Sanctuary Project’s staff has updated one or more sections within this resource. by a member of The Open Sanctuary Project’s staff as of April 14, 2022
Very young Unless explicitly mentioned, we are referring to domesticated goose breeds, not wild geese, who may have unique needs not covered by this resource. (also known as Young geese) have their own special care needs to help them reach adulthood in good health and comfort. Depending on how old they are when they enter your care and whether they have had or continue to have access to their mother, goslings have diverse needs when it comes to health, nutrition, and socialization.
Intake For Goslings
When a new A young goose finds their way to your sanctuary, it’s critical to follow appropriate intake and The policy or space in which an individual is separately housed away from others as a preventative measure to protect other residents from potentially contagious health conditions, such as in the case of new residents or residents who may have been exposed to certain diseases. guidelines in order to protect your new resident and the existing flock. The gosling should receive all location and age-appropriate vaccinations (be sure to talk to your veterinarian about which vaccines, if any, are appropriate for your Unless explicitly mentioned, we are referring to domesticated goose breeds, not wild geese, who may have unique needs not covered by this resource. residents), and they should be evaluated for any health issues. If they are with their mother, you should not separate the two unless absolutely necessary, such as if one of them has a communicable illness or needs extra space to recover from a health issue.
Nutrition For Goslings
Ideally, goslings should eat a waterfowl starter food (or a A young duck starter food). There are conflicting recommendations regarding how much protein goslings need at different stages of growth, and much of the available information pertains to raising geese in production settings, but starting with 20% protein for at least their first four weeks of life is a common practice. For recommendations regarding specific brands of food to feed goslings at various ages, you can check out Majestic Waterfowl Sanctuary’s recommendations here.
If waterfowl starter is unavailable, chick starter can be used on the condition that it must be supplemented with additional niacin and must be unmedicated. Without the supplemental niacin, goslings can develop serious leg and joint disorders, often decreasing their lifespan. Niacin supplements can be purchased at many drugstores, or brewer’s yeast can often be found at animal food stores. If using a niacin supplement, add 100 to 150 mg of niacin per gallon of drinking water until 10 weeks of age. If using brewer’s yeast, add 2 to 3 cups per 10 pounds of food.
Geese love grass and much of their diet is composed of different grasses. Provide fresh, pesticide-free grass trimmings to older goslings (around 4 weeks of age). When they are older, geese will ideally have access to grass and will forage much of their food this way. As goslings have no teeth, they will need appropriately sized Small stones or sand swallowed by birds to help them digest food. to help them break down any food other than their starter food, though if they have regular time outside, they should be able to get enough grit on their own. DO NOT offer grit that contains oyster shell or additional forms of calcium as too much calcium can result in health issues for goslings.
Water For Goslings
Goslings love water and should have access to fresh, clean drinking water. They use water to help digest their food and clean their nostrils. They also may be interested in bathing, but it is important to know that their feathers are not waterproof yet, and they can become waterlogged and get sick or drown if left in a water source unattended or one where they can not easily get out. Any water sources for bathing should be lukewarm and remain shallow but deep enough for a gosling to fit their entire bill. It should be easy for them to get in and out safely. If a gosling soaks their feathers, they may need to be dried off to prevent becoming chilled.
Heat Sources For Goslings
Young goslings without their mother will need a heat source. Many online sources will recommend the use of a heat lamp, but you must be aware that these come with serious risk. Not only are heat lamps a fire risk, some glass bulb heat lamps are coated with substances containing polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). At high temperatures, these bulbs can put out highly toxic fumes, resulting in Polytetrafluoroethylene Toxicosis (also known as Teflon Flu and Polymer Fume Fever). PTFE coated bulbs (and any other items containing PTFE or Teflon) should never be used around birds. Ceramic bulb heat lamps are a safer option, but be sure they are set up OUTSIDE of the housing and at least 18 inches away from any flammable materials to prevent burns and fires. Place them at one end of their The indoor or outdoor area where an animal resident lives, eats, and rests. so goslings can adjust where they’d like to be in proximity to the heat. An even safer alternative heat source is a radiant heater like the EcoGlo from Brinsea. You adjust the height each week until the goslings’ feathers have come in. For an option that carries no fire risk and requires no electricity, you can use Snuggle Safe microwavable heat discs, but you must ensure it is enough to keep goslings appropriately warm. Be sure to keep discs in a Snuggle Safe cover or wrapped in a blanket or towel, and pay attention to when they need to be reheated. Make sure to offer enough heat discs so that everyone can get to a warm area if desired, but make sure they still have plenty of non-heated space too so that they can choose how near or far they need to be from the heat.
Additionally, you will need to take care not to overheat goslings in warmer weather. If you live in a warmer climate and have draft-free living space for the goslings, they may not require a heat source. A regular incandescent light bulb may provide enough warmth for any young goslings in this situation. Observe the goslings’ behavior. If they are too cold, they will crowd and huddle near the heat source. If they are too hot, they will attempt to spread out along the edges, away from the heat. Start off at 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit for newly hatched goslings and decrease the temperature 5 degrees over each week until their feathers come in or until you reach the ambient temperature of the space they are housed in.
Living Spaces For Goslings
It is important that goslings live in draft-free shelter with proper ventilation. Drafts and poor ventilation can cause unwanted health problems. Their shelters should include soft bedding or grass. Do NOT place them in cages with wire bottoms as this can cause serious foot injuries. Additionally, be sure surfaces are not slippery as goslings can slip and injure their legs (causing splayed or spraddle leg). You can use rubber drawer liners on the floor to ensure a non-slip surface.
Goslings can and will splash their water, and their waste is quite watery. This being said, you will have to keep up with the mess as best you can to ensure they have a dry, clean living space. They should have clean, dry bedding- options include non-woven blankets, pine or aspen wood shavings, or straw (long strands of straw can be difficult to walk through, so shorter fibered varieties may be best). Cedar should never be used in avian living spaces as it can cause severe respiratory issues. Goslings will nibble at anything in their living space, including bedding. For this reason it can be important to get bedding that is either big enough that they can’t eat it or is something they do not appear interested in eating.
If the weather is warm and calm, you can begin taking goslings out for miniature supervised “outings”, but they should not be left unattended or remain out all day until they are around 6 weeks old. Additionally, they may need to be encouraged back into their indoor living space during inclement weather.
Social Considerations For Goslings
Goslings are social and should be brought up with other goslings when possible. They learn important skills from their mother and, when possible, should be kept together during this time. They can later be introduced and integrated into an existing flock or be their own little flock.
If you are caring for a single gosling, be sure to still follow proper intake and quarantine procedures as placing them within the flock could potentially spread disease. In the case of a single gosling in quarantine, you might place a stuffed animal goose in with them as “company”. Groups of goslings that come in together without their mothers, while missing out on important developmental time with their parent, can generally be adequately cared for by human caregivers.
Gosling Health Considerations
Goslings can be particularly susceptible to certain illnesses and diseases. At this stage in life, they need time to build up their immune systems before risking exposure to disease. It is important to speak with a veterinarian about appropriate vaccinations as early as possible.
Goslings should be monitored closely for any signs of illness including lethargy, decreased appetite, diarrhea, labored breathing, panting, and sinus flaring. If a gosling appears to be separating themselves from the flock, this could be a sign of illness or a sign that they are getting picked on. Pay close attention to their mobility- healthy goslings should walk and run without any sign of lameness, and when they stand both legs should be evenly under them.
Angel Wing is a condition affecting goslings that causes their wing feathers to turn outwards. A diet high in protein and excess calories is thought to be the cause of Angel Wing. The good news is it is preventable! Angel Wing manifests as a twisted wing joint resulting in their wing tip being unable to lie flat against their body. This problem can lead to lifelong disfiguration, but is much more detrimental in wild geese since it will prevent them from being able to fly. Consult with a veterinarian regarding treatment- they can determine if the condition can be fixed by keeping the wing wrapped to their body. Never attempt to do this without working with a veterinarian, as improper wrapping can have serious health consequences.
Spraddle Leg, or Splayed Leg, can be caused by an issue during incubation or hatching, but the most common cause is a slippery floor. If a gosling cannot get proper traction on the Goslings may be born with obvious leg deformities or develop leg issues as they grow (the terms “splay leg” or “spraddle leg” are often used to refer to deformities that result in one or both legs turning outward). There are many potential causes of leg issues in goslings, including incubation issues, nutritional deficiencies, or injury. Depending on the specific issue, correction may be possible, but this requires veterinary assessment to determine the cause.
To help prevent leg issues caused by slipping injury, be sure to provide adequate traction for goslings.
Goslings are susceptible to worms just like their grown-up counterparts. Sometimes this is mild but other times it can be fatal in goslings if left unchecked. Be sure to speak to your vet about the best The act of medicating an animal to reduce or eliminate internal parasites, either prophylactically or in response to illness. options and protocols for your goslings!
Wry Neck, an unnatural twisting of the neck, can be a result of trauma, toxins, a vitamin deficiency, or an issue during incubation. This twisting can range from minor to severe. If one of your gosling residents is showing signs of wry neck, be sure to consult with your veterinarian immediately in order to determine the cause and best treatment options. In some cases vitamin supplementation may be necessary. In severe cases, individuals may have difficulty walking, eating, and drinking. Be sure to provide supportive care as necessary to ensure they are able to get the nutrients they need and make sure their current living arrangement is safe for them.
When Goslings Grow Up
As we have covered, goslings have different nutritional, environmental, and health needs than adult geese. The younger the gosling, the more protection, heat, and protein (amino acids) they need. As they grow, their downy fuzz will become feathers (around 6-7 weeks) and they will become more “waterproof”. This will allow them to regulate their body temperatures and become more buoyant in water. They will be able to swim more safely at this point and can be on a waterfowl food that has a lower protein content.
The age at which you slowly start introducing the goslings to the flock will likely be dependent on personalities, diets, flock arrangements, and your set-up. In most cases, you should wait until they are at least 6 weeks old, though some prefer to wait quite a bit longer. Ideally, introductions are done in short, supervised meetings, spread over several days. If it is spring, male geese (ganders) may behave more territorially and should be closely monitored. You should watch for any signs of older geese “picking on” or biting the goslings and intervene immediately. Alternatively, if there is a goose who has taken to the goslings, you can place them with the goslings during their outside time. You can read more about the introduction process here.
Taking time to consider the specific needs of goslings as a species and as individuals will help ensure your residents are happy and healthy!
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